Dinner in Balangan, Uluwatu
The light turns at about six and the whole terrace turns with it. Then the chandelier and the lanterns take the room, the oven is at its hottest, and dinner is what the fire can do: lamb, aged and fermented beef, octopus, pizza from the stone. A Wood-Fired Mediterranean Kitchen in Balangan, Uluwatu, upstairs, with the breeze reaching you before it reaches the road. Come for the light at six, stay for the fire after it.
Dinner 14:00–22:00 · Mondays until 16:00










Come before sunset
Palms over the rail, a long line of ocean past the rooftops, and a glass of something cold while the sky does its work. Tables by the rail are worth booking.
Then the fire
Arabic-style lamb neck with marinated chickpeas and black banana cream, beef aged and fermented in the house, grilled octopus with burnt romano, duck breast with black apple. Pizza from the stone if the table wants it simple.
And the rest of the night
Malbec, shiraz, primitivo; a lavender valencia or an island mai tai; and a coconut truffle when nobody has room left.
Off the one menu
There is a vegetarian side to dinner that people do not expect: the stroganoff has a version made from jackfruit, cooked the same slow way as the beef, and the grill does vegetables over the coals.
From the fire
- Arabic Style Lamb Neck145k
- Grilled Beef Steak, Aged & Fermented205k
- Grilled Octopus138k
- Duck Breast142k
- Butterfish Steak125k
- Lamb Kebab115k
Pizza & the bar
- Pizza Pepperoni98k
- Pizza Margarita95k
- Albard, Malbec, Argentinafrom the list
- Grant Burge Shiraz, Barossa Valley, Australiafrom the list
- Lavender Valencia85k
- Island Mai Tai85k
Prices in thousands of Indonesian rupiah: 88k means Rp88,000.
The evening menu, dish by dish
The whole of what the kitchen sends out at night, with what is in each dish and what it costs. Prices are in thousands of rupiah: 88k means Rp88,000.
Wood & Fire
Jack Stroganoff88k
jackfruit, mushrooms, mashed potatoes & pickled cucumbervegetarian
Butterfish Steak125k
unagi sauce, labne, tomato chutneynew
Grilled Octopus138k
baby potato & burnt romano
Tuna Steak130k
chef's sauce
Duck Breast142k
black apple puree & kumquat
Melted Duck Pie110k
oven pie & fermented tomato chutney
Half Chicken125k
unagi glaze
Papa's Chicken Patty88k
mushrooms, truffle oil & herbs
Chicken Mozzarella Sausage118k
mix +35k, beef parmesan sausage +45k
Arabic Style Lamb Neck145k
marinated chickpeas & black banana cream
Beef Stroganoff147k
smoked cucumber, creamy sauce & crispy rye bread
Grilled Beef Steak, Aged & Fermented205k
fermented in house
Smashed Burger140k
smashed wagyu beef, baked onion & chef's sauce
Lamb Kebab115k
with smoked ketchup & mushroom mayo
To Share
Babaganoush 2.048k
vegetarian
Hummus62k
tomato +25k, lamb +35kvegetarian
Stracciatella138k
smoked fig & crispy basilvegetarian
Masala Falafel70k
curry masala sauce & crispy buckwheatvegetarian
Tell Me What I Am50k
vegetarian
Broccoli with Labne65k
almond flake & pomegranatevegetarian
Grilled Zucchini87k
creamy sauce & mozzarellavegetarian
Chicken Pate65k
crispy bread & herbs
Smoked Tuna Pate65k
marinated shallot & crispy parsley
Beef Tartare85k
homestyle miso parmesan mousse
Tuna Tataki80k
lacto tomato water
Tonnato Vitello88k
thin sliced tuna with creamy beef sauce & bread
Aloha Smoked Tacos88k
tacos with beef tender & sweet smoked pineapple
Pinovani87k
pastry cake with cheese
Crispy Broken Tortilla with Smoked Eel135k
Charcoal Potatoes75k
riccota sauce, salted sardinenew
Pasta & Risotto
Mushroom Risotto110k
truffle oil & parmesan moussevegetarian
Seafood Risotto125k
parmesan cheese & spinach
Melted Duck Pappardelle115k
parmesan mousse & duck confit
Prawn Home Style Pasta135k
bisque sauce, fermented tomato, zucchini & parmesan cheesefermented in house
Smoked Beef Ravioli125k
marinated mushrooms & parmesan mousse
Pumpkin Ravioli85k
smoked coconut creamvegetarian
Pizza & Flatbread
Pizza Pepperoni98k
pepperoni, tomato sauce, mozzarella
Pizza Margarita95k
classic pizza with tomato sauce, mozzarella
Flatbread Lamb Kebab82k
australian lamb kebab, pickled bamboo and fresh greensnew
Flatbread Slow-Cooked Beef85k
slow-cooked beef, tahini and pickled onionnew
To share, before the fire
Dinner here tends to start flat on the table rather than plated: a few things in the middle, warm flatbread, and everyone reaching. Order three or four between two, more if the table is long.
To share
- Hummus62k
- Babaganoush 2.048k
- Masala Falafel70k
- Broccoli with Labne65k
- Stracciatella138k
From the cold side
- Beef Tartare85k
- Tuna Tataki80k
- Smoked Tuna Pate65k
- Chicken Pate65k
- Charcoal Potatoes75k
Prices in thousands of Indonesian rupiah: 88k means Rp88,000.
Pasta and risotto
Not everyone at the table wants meat off the coals, and the kitchen knows it. Duck confit through pappardelle, smoked beef folded into ravioli, mushroom risotto finished with truffle oil and parmesan mousse.
Pasta
- Melted Duck Pappardelle115k
- Smoked Beef Ravioli125k
- Prawn Home Style Pasta135k
- Pumpkin Ravioli85k
Risotto
- Mushroom Risotto110k
- Seafood Risotto125k
Prices in thousands of Indonesian rupiah: 88k means Rp88,000.
The bar and the wine
The wine list is short and chosen rather than long: malbec from Argentina, shiraz from Barossa, primitivo. The bar runs classics and a few of its own, and keeps going after the kitchen slows down.
Cocktails
- Negroni140k
- Espresso Martini92k
- Gin Basil Smash85k
- Old Cuban88k
- Berry Sour85k
Long and easy
- Aperol Spritz120k
- Island Mai Tai85k
- Lavender Valencia, the calm mimosa85k
- Vanilla Pineapple Whisky Sour130k
Prices in thousands of Indonesian rupiah: 88k means Rp88,000.
Dinner in company
The room is built for tables rather than couples: the sharing plates come first, the fire section arrives in the middle, and the evening runs long because nobody is moved along. If you are six or more, book ahead and say so, and the team will put the table together before you arrive.
A longer look at eating in Balangan, what is open when and what it costs, is in the journal.
Dinner with a view, and then lantern light
The terrace is open to the air over village roofs and palms, with a line of ocean past the rooftops. The light turns at about six and the whole room turns with it. After dark the chandelier and the lanterns take over, the tables go quiet, and nobody moves anyone along. Tables by the rail are the ones to ask for, and they go first.
It works as a dinner date without trying to be a date restaurant. The tables by the rail are the ones couples ask for, the light goes at about six, and after dark nobody comes to move you along. If you are planning a romantic dinner or a quiet anniversary, say so when you book and we will put you by the rail.
Slow cooked, aged, fermented
The evening leans on things that took days rather than minutes: beef aged and fermented in the house, beef slow cooked into a flatbread, duck folded into a pie with fermented tomato. The fire does the rest.
Slow and fermented
- Grilled Beef Steak, Aged & Fermented205k
- Flatbread Slow-Cooked Beef85k
- Melted Duck Pie110k
- Slow-Cooked Beef & Smoked Yolk Millet Bowl118k
From the coals
- Arabic Style Lamb Neck145k
- Grilled Octopus138k
- Duck Breast142k
- Lamb Kebab115k
Sunset dinner, then the lanterns
A sunset dinner here starts at the rail: the light turns at about six, the terrace turns with it, and the ocean past the rooftops goes gold for twenty minutes. Then the chandelier and the lanterns take the room and the evening settles in. Jimbaran bay is twelve minutes across if you want the sand afterwards, Uluwatu twenty-five the other way. The rail tables are the sunset seats and they are booked first, so ask for one when you reserve.
Before you come up
Balangan Beach is about four kilometres down the hill, ten minutes by car. Jalan Pantai Balangan is the road that takes you from the sand out to Jalan Uluwatu, so whichever way you are heading afterwards, you pass us anyway. Parking is at the restaurant and there is usually space in the evening.
Do you take reservations for dinner?
Yes, and for the rail tables it is worth it: the sunset seats go first. You can book from this page.
What time does dinner start?
Dinner runs from two in the afternoon until ten at night, Tuesday to Sunday. On Mondays the kitchen closes at four, so the evening menu is a short one that day.
Is there a separate dinner menu?
One menu runs the day, and from twelve all of it is served. In the evening the wood and fire section is the point of it, and the bar and wine list open up.
Is it far from Uluwatu temple and the beaches?
We are in Balangan, at the quiet northern end of Uluwatu: twenty-five minutes to the temple, eighteen to Padang Padang, twelve across to Jimbaran bay. On the way to Balangan Beach, upstairs.
Is this a good spot for a sunset dinner?
Yes, and the rail tables are the ones for it. The light turns at about six over the palms and the village rooftops, with a line of ocean past them, and after dark the room runs on lantern light. Book a rail table if the sunset is the point of the evening.
Is it fine dining?
Not in the white-tablecloth sense, and we would rather say so. It is an open terrace, the cooking is done over wood and fire, and the plates are meant for sharing. What it does have is a kitchen that ages and ferments its own beef, bakes its own bread and takes the wine list seriously. If you are looking for fine dining on the Bukit, Uluwatu has it; if you want a long dinner cooked over fire with a view, this is that.
Do you have a wine bar?
There is a bar and a wine list rather than a wine bar: prosecco and cava, malbec from Argentina, shiraz from Barossa, primitivo from Salento, alongside classic cocktails. It keeps going after the kitchen slows down.
How far is it from Jimbaran?
About twelve minutes across to Jimbaran bay, twenty-five to Uluwatu temple, eighteen to Padang Padang. We are on Jalan Pantai Balangan, on the way to Balangan Beach, upstairs.
Is Shaffa a good place for a dinner date?
Yes, it is one of the quieter date nights in Uluwatu. Ask for a table by the rail when you book: they are the ones couples take for a romantic dinner. The light turns at about six and after dark the room goes quiet under the lanterns.
Do you have vegetarian options for dinner?
Yes. 23 dishes on the menu are vegetarian and marked with a leaf: hummus, babaganoush, masala falafel, pumpkin ravioli, and a jackfruit stroganoff cooked the same slow way as the beef. Vegetables go over the charcoal grill.
Can you seat a group for dinner?
Yes. Tell us the number when you book and we will put the table together before you arrive.
How far is Shaffa from Balangan Beach?
About four kilometres, ten minutes by car up Jalan Pantai Balangan. That road runs on to Jalan Uluwatu, so you pass us on the way out from the beach either way.
